Domaine Hubert Lamy, located in Saint-Aubin, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France, is a family-run winery with a rich history and a reputation for producing high-quality, terroir-driven wines.
The Lamy family has been involved in viticulture since 1640, with records indicating a long-standing presence in the region. Domaine Hubert Lamy was officially established in 1973 by Hubert Lamy, who worked with his father, Jean Lamy, before creating his own domaine. At its founding, the estate consisted of around 8 hectares, primarily in regional appellations. The domaine expanded significantly during the 1990s, acquiring new plots and planting additional vineyards, such as Clos de la Chatenière, Derrière Chez Edouard, and Murgers des Dents de Chien. In 1995, Olivier Lamy, Hubert’s son, joined the domaine, bringing fresh ideas and experience gained from working at Domaine Méo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanée. Olivier’s leadership marked a transformative era, with a focus on quality over quantity, including ceasing sales to négociants in 1997 and grubbing up less desirable vine plots.
Domaine Hubert Lamy spans 18.5 hectares, with 80% planted to Chardonnay and 20% to Pinot Noir, reflecting the region’s emphasis on white wines. The vineyards are predominantly located in Saint-Aubin, but also extend to Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and Santenay. A notable holding is a small plot in the prestigious Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, adding to the domaine’s prestige. The domaine produces around 110,000 bottles annually across 20 different appellations, showcasing a diverse range of terroirs. Key vineyard sites include Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes, En Remilly, Clos de la Chatenière, and Derrière Chez Edouard, as well as Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles and Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots.
The domaine’s focus on high-density planting, pioneered by Olivier Lamy, is a significant aspect of its viticulture. Some vineyards have up to 30,000 vines per hectare, compared to the usual 10,000, which results in lower yields but enhances concentration and complexity in the wines. This approach, combined with sustainable practices like plowing soils and minimal chemical use, underscores the domaine’s commitment to expressing terroir.
The wines of Domaine Hubert Lamy are highly acclaimed, particularly the whites, which are noted for their vibrancy, energy, and aging potential. Critics, including William Kelley of Wine Spectator, have praised Olivier Lamy, with Kelley suggesting he would award the domaine three stars in a hypothetical Michelin Guide-style ranking of Burgundian producers. The whites are often compared favorably to those from more famous appellations like Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet, offering excellent value and alternative expressions of Burgundy’s terroir. The reds, while less prominent, are described as ethereal, showing finesse rather than power, with a focus on elegance.
The domaine’s reputation is further solidified by its position as a leading producer in Saint-Aubin, an appellation historically overlooked but gaining recognition due to producers like Lamy. Tastings, such as the 2020 vintage reviewed in the Burgundy Report, underline Olivier’s presence in the top echelon of white wine production, alongside estates like Domaine Sauzet and Lamy-Caillat. The wines’ cult-like following is evident in their sought-after status, with enthusiasts and collectors valuing their precision, purity, and respect for terroir.
